Roux is a "Block Building" method with a heavy reliance on M-slice moves. The Roux Method can be used for speedsolving and can be applied to FMC. It is a hybrid corners first and block building. It's roots can be linked up with the Waterman Method. Usually, this method is used by people who like blockbuilding and using M-slices. Unlike Petrus and CFOP (Fridrich), the Roux Method's inventor has achieved sub-15 average of 5 in a WCA competition.
Personally, I use it because it looks cool. I had no intent of being one of the fastest Roux solvers in the world, but it's cool to be fast too :D Roux is like a caged animal. Take time to get to know it and respect it. It will only benefit you in turn.
OBTW! You can click on any alg and it'll show you how to do it and stuff and stuff. Important things to keep in mind are bold in the tutorial.
The Steps in Roux:
Step 1 - Build a 1x2x3 Block on the left side of the cube
Step 2 - Build another 1x2x3 on the right side of the cube
Step 3 - Permute and Orient the U layer Corners
Step 4 - L6E or last 6 edges of the M-Slice needs to be solved this is divided into 3 sub-steps.
- a) Orientation
- b) Permutation of UL and UR
- c) Permutation of the Resti - How to recognize the special case.
The first step is creating a 1x2x3 block. Generally this step should take between than 9-12 moves in real speedsolves. And there really isn't a set way to be able to solve the first 1x2x3 block. But it does take time to get used to. Don't go "OMFG my times are slow! Roux sucks!" because blocks are pain in the ass that takes a while to get used to...trust me...
The way that I suggest approaching the 1x2x3 is first making a 1x2x2 and then expanding into a 1x2x3. Usually, this is my normal approach in speedsolving. Just seeing where the pieces move and understanding how they move to certain spots will allow you to be able to build this 1x2x3 block.
Some general tips for the 1x2x3 is that you have a completely open cube with no restrictions on the moves that you can do. You don't have fixed centers so do whatever needs to be done in order for that 1x2x3 to be made.
The second step is creating the next 1x2x3 block on the right side. In the diagrams above, the second block is shown as red and the orange is the first block.
For this next block, the first block now restricts you from using certain moves to create blocks. Usually, the moves that I use are <r, R, M>. Again I make a 1x2x2 and expand to a 1x2x3 much like the first but this time with restrictions. Below is a diagram for making the second 1x2x3 block (actually, you can also apply this to the first 1x2x3 block).
In this diagram, the 1x2x3 is broken down into 3 steps.
1) Build a pair (1) and attach to the center. This pair can be located anywhere on the 1x2x3 you are building.
2) Attach an adjacent edge (2). This is pretty self-explanatory . This will make a 1x2x2 block
3) Build the last pair (3) and attach to the 1x2x2 to complete the 1x2x3.
Of course there are definitely other ways to do this such as (2),(1),(3) which is like a F2L type solve when it comes to the blocks though I don't recommend it.
In this step, you'll want to orient and permute the U-layer Corners (shown by the purple). Roux uses a set of algorithms called CMLL which will orient and permute the U layer corners in one algorithm.
This step is where you solve the last 6 edges (L6E) of the cube. Yeah, whatever, I know, this step is what makes Roux so intimidating. You probably went "Oh blocks are so easy! HA! This is just algs! Osht..." This is step can be divided into 3 sub-steps for ease so you don't get too confused.
These sub-steps are
Orientation of the L6E is divided into cycles, meaning that it is a repetitive process. There are a total of 9 different orientations but only 3 "mini-algs" that cycle them into another orientation until all of them are correctly oriented.
Oriented pieces means that they are flipped correctly. It doesn't really matter which center is on U or D at this point as long as you can recognize good and bad edges.
Good Edge = Oriented Correctly
Bad Edge = Oriented Rebelliously and doesn't want to be part of the common society (flipped incorrectly).
We don't like bad edges. We like to teach them how to be part of a functional society so we must forcefully flip them.
Essentially, all the edge stickers must be next to another sticker that is the same or opposite color.
There can only be an even number of bad edges (misoriented edges) with up to 6 bad edges (2, 4, 6 edges)
Let's start with a few examples and spot which is the good and bad edges.
In there following, there will be two pictures. One will have an example of a certain orientation and the other will identify which are the bad edges.
NOTE: On the example diagrams the yellow parts (both blocks and U layer corners)are considered solved.
The centers on the M-slice are Purple for the U/D color and Pink for the F/B color.
UL and UR are exceptions to same/opposite sticker rule so they'll be green.
The General Rule with the Greens are They cannot face U or D
Hopefully this way you actually see what's flipped and what's not.
|4 Bad Edges, no biggie. Opposite/Same Color rule shows that there are 3 on top that aren't right. But where's the 4th? It's in DB. You can use process of elimination to see that it is the bad edge since the visible FD piece is a good edge.|
|2 Bad edges. Simple right? It better be. UR is obviously a bad edge. It practically stands out like a girl at a cube competition. But where is the second edge? Well he's hiding like that guy who likes that girl at a cube competition. In DB. Using a process of elimination, the rest of the visible pieces are oriented correctly. Green is a good edge, if you are wondering since it is NOT facing U or D. That leaves the DB position left.|
|Here all the edges are bad since the in the "Bad Edge Diagram," none of the purples and pinks match and both greens are facing up. This is an example of when centers don't matter. As you can see, as long as the purples and pinks match and the greens aren't facing U or D, that is the correct orientation.|
UL/UR permutation. The joys of confusion. Well, this step is easy and you can easily combine this step with 4c. You can pretty much play with this all you want until you get it...or read the next few bits of information like a good learned cuber...unless you're a lazy ass in which case you can donate to Waffo and I'll gladly post all the possible (Shortest and fastest) UL and UR Permutation algs.
General Rules for UL and UR Permutation.
1) To preserve the EO, you can do M2 moves and U moves to permute stuff into place
2) It's okay to just use an M' or M move as long as you follow up with a U2 and another M' or M
Play around with that and when you get annoyed just look at these diagrams
You want to get the UL and UR pieces diagonal of each other. Like this picture. As long as one piece is in the D-layer and the other is diagonal from it on the U, you're pretty much set.
Generic Cuber - Set for what?
Waffo - Oh what the hell man!
So all you have to do is (M/M')U2(M/M') to get them opposite of each other.
Alternatively you'll end up with this case. But it's the same thing. (M/M')U2(M/M')
Now you have them opposite of each other. If you didn't end up with the UL and UR pieces in place. Put them on the D-layer like the diagram to the right. Adjust the U-layer and then M2 to place them in.
After this step. You should have L and R done.
|What you want...||What you don't want..unless you want to mess up|
So this last step isn't that hard at all. Except one case. I like to all it the FUUUUUUUUU~ Case since it's just annoying to recognize sometimes. I had to freaking make it's own paragraph explaining how to recognize it. These cases don't really have any fancy names so I'll make them up.
Anyways, here are general rules for this step.
1) You know AUF? Adjust U Face? Well for Roux, I'm going to try to coin a phrase here and say that Roux has AMS. Adjust M-Slice. Yeah, I'm a boss like that. Basically. The M-slice can be flipped around in a different direction from the diagrams. The algs will still work...but you'll have to fix it later.
2) Rotations fail...in fact I should have mentioned that in the blocks...but whatever. Don't rotate at all in LSE...
3) Feel free to do an alternative ending or start so you influence the AMS to your benefit.
Worse than Fuu~
It's pretty much the hardest case in Roux since recognition is hell. So I'll try to show step by step how to recognize these case
For the Fuu~ Cases you have what looks like a solved M-Slice block. In other words, an edge that's already in place. What you want to do is place is bring that solved edge and place it on D like the pictures on the left and right.
You will want to find opposite stickers that are also opposite in position (Like the Picture).You need this on the U layer so you can adjust the M if necessary .
From there, you should be able to find the proper alg to finish the cube. After that, just adjust the M-Slice and you are done.
Because my organization skills made it possible to not be able to sneak in my example videos, here's a content box...just for those examples...yeah, you don't have to tell me I'm awesome.
Well, there are a lot of things that I didn't mention on this written tutorial. But finding those out is half the fun of actually being able to be fast with Roux. Exploration is what makes Roux and you don't get bored easily since there are always newer tricks to learn because it is such an intuitive method that can be easily manipulated.
So have fun and explore the possibilities :D
So I also have video tutorials available on my YouTube channel. Most of the people that view this page would have probably known this already since I redirect them here every chance I get so......here you go. MY YOUTUBE